Model of the month: Lara Stone

As W Magazine declared fashion has a new it girl. At 25 years old Lara stone doesn't seem like a likely candidate for the next top model, but her quirky look, voluptuous figure and versatility are a potent mix which has shaken up the fashion industry's perspective of what is beautiful. Stone isn't your typical cookie cutter model, with her infamous tooth gap and womanly figure, the Dutch model has been branded the anti-model, Unlike the innocent doe eyed look of now-a-days typical model, stones overt sexuality and Bridget Bardot-esque look exert a powerful femininity and a dominating presence.


However stone isn't a completely fresh face to the modelling scene, at 12 years old she was discovered in a Paris metro by a model agent's wife. At 15 she entered into the Elite Model Look competition. While not winning she didn't go unnoticed. For the next few years she worked internationally, doing regional print in places like Japan and Barcelona. However Stone wasn't getting the recognition she has hoped for and at 22 years old felt that she was too old to make it big. Then with the switching of agents from Elite to IMG, she was relaunched as a fresh face even though she had been working the industry for years. IMG'S tactics worked as she was became bombarded with requests for runway shows and editorial work. It was however Ricardo Tisci, creative director of Givenchy who really helped her establish her position in the modelling industry by casting her in his Fall 2006 show.


Her feminine frame and feline features enthralled the fashion industry and with editorials, covers and campaigns galore Stone doesn't have to worry about her hatred of the runway hindering her career. With her unusually small feet not fitting into the catwalk standard size shoes, her fear of falling has made her catwalk appearances far and few. But when she has graced the runway it has only been for the best, including Prada, Chanel, Balmain, Marc Jacobs, Victoria's secret and Miu Miu. As well She has become a sort of muse for Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld, and was the sole model featured on both the cover and editorials of the February 2009 edition.

Stone also has managed to capture some of the most coveted campaigns in the industry such as Givenchy, Hugo Boss and Dsquared as well as replacing Kate moss as the face of Calvin Klein. With her soft curves and atypical features this girl is a refreshing shake up in the monotonous modelling industry.

Commercial VS. Creativity

The battle of commerce vs. creativity has always been an underlying theme present in every fashion week. Usually designers are situated on either end of the spectrum, with the Chloes, Burberrys and Chanels of the world concentrating on desirability, wearability and longevity, nearly trend less pieces and then there are the likes of Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh who delight in displaying ferocious fantasies of creative genius. While this battle has always been one that rages through the veins of fashion week it is this battle has become overarching story of the 2009 A/W season. Being in the midst of a recession has piled the pressure onto designers to produce collections that are wearable, desirable, yet inspiring, in other words abundant in 'investment' pieces. But while investment pieces such as a simple white shirt or classic trench coat are long lasting; as something you can also pick up in Gap, they are unlikely to be the holy grail of a collection that will ring in the tills. However On the opposite end of the field, visions of high drama theatrical showmanship such as those by McQueen will hardly be drawing in the cash either. But is it necessary to sacrifice all sense of creativity until this recession decides to draw to a close? McQueen’s collection provided a statement, rebelling against this sense of creative sacrifice and the current predicament of fashion and consumerism. While many criticized the collection for being showy and exaggerated, while neither pushing the boundaries of fashion forward, it was an energising and a refreshing change from the sensible collections of many designers aimed at the middle-aged workforce, that sacrificed the key elements of construction and craftsmanship in favour of profit margins.

(Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll)

However, while an element of creativity is required especially to show that fashion is very much alive and not the sombre, black affair reflecting current economic times, it is the designers who can produce a classic well made garment with an edge, a desirability factor that will come up on top. It is the young designers who are creating waves this season with mainly British talent revolting against the lacklustre recycled conformity the recession is demanding. Christopher Kane, London’s fashion darling has established a label of international repute based on his wearable yet inspiring garments. Kane started out his collection with an androgynous feel, with tartan knits and motorbike jackets leading the way but it is his highly covetable dresses which have caught the industry’s eye. Sheer panelling, scalloping and sheer organza have embellished his dresses which didn't skimp on the creative, yet still manage to be wearable and well constructed. Richard Nicoll and Marios Schwab have followed Kane's lead, with an abundance of conceptual cocktail dresses on Schwab’s runways, and an element of futuristic space age construction encapsulating Nicoll's show. However black still reigned supreme as the colour of choice especially on the Parisian and Milan runways where even fashion favourite Lanvin conveyed slightly sombre mood.

(Balmain, Marc Jacobs, Gucci)

However a select number of designers rejected winter's colour of choice, black, and instead opted to choose vibrant colours as their way of fighting any claims of creative sacrifice. Marc Jacobs supplied a refreshing antidote to all the gloom and doom of the era with a burst of colourful 80’s glamour in his collection. Neon, prints, sequins, shoulder pads, velvet, metallics and brocade provided a rebellious statement against the collapsing economy and the attitudes that people just wont want to shop anymore. Embellishment also offered an escape from the sober mood with Gucci and Balmain offering that perfect mixture of commercial and creative. Gucci, while hardly the definition of creativity, stepped up it's game in these stakes but still remains is perfect example of a label that has gone from raw creativeness to commercially driven. Ever since of the arrival of Frida Giannini to the Gucci label the label had been wrought with criticism of over commercialisation. Opinions have been divided over her accessible channelling of trends and those who want something a bit more fashion forward and boundary pushing then Gianni's market niche of glitter embellished girls out on the town. While the controversial Tom Ford days where overt sexuality was the creative direction of choice are over there was a slight reminiscence of his hard glamour running through the look. Sequins, lame and shoulder pads conveyed a feel of luxe night tome glamour. While the collection wasn’t exactly boundary pushing it did offer an alternative to the austere and overly simplified evening wear on display from other collections. Balmain on the other hand offered a potent mixture of clever embellishment and architectural craftsmanship, toying with geometric shapes to produce a strong visual statement. The label has caused mass excitement for the past two seasons creating an entire look copied by every shop on the high street. The labels blend of big 80’s shoulders, stone washed jeans and a rock chick aesthetic, all while being adorned in vast rage of textures from studs, to sequins, buckles, chains, cuffs and crystals. Like Gucci it has taken the aesthetic direction of the disco-esque nightclub scene.

(Jil Sander, Nina Ricci, Rodarte)

Architecture and cut have been some of the main links that connects a designer to both the commercial and creative aesthetics of a collection. Designers from Jil Sander to Nina Ricci and Rodarte played with beautifully cut shapes and sharp lines especially focusing on the shoulders, a huge trend this fall. Cocoon coats, soft curves and minimalistic one shouldered gowns dominated these shows and showed that clothes doesn’t have to be shrouded in vivid colours and over the top cuts to be creative. Something as simplistic as a well sculptured evening dress can have as much as a visual impact as a garish and haughty McQueen gown. Rodarte offered a sumptuous mixture of interesting cuts, textures and colours to their collection. This relatively new brand has wowed the industry and is a favourite of Hollywood celebrities and fashion personalities alike. The brand is utterly unique and its a/w perspective was eery yet ethereal at the same time. Confections of sculptures knits, chiffons and even foils enthralled the audience as mini dress after minidress sauntered down the runway. This brand remains unique in its ability to offer artistic creations while still retaining a commercial edge.

While most would assume the recession demands a pared back, simplistic approach to fashion, designers are refusing to obey these rules demanded by a collapsing economy. While some may have stuck to what they know best, others offered an alternative option allowing consumers to choose between a wide range of visually inspiring garments that don’t skimp on the creative factor and are yet wearable and desirable at the same time, and while not instantly recognizable classic this season has produced some of the best ‘investment pieces’ to date.

Inspiration - US Vogue

While i am a lover of all things Vogue, The American edition of the magazine is not my preferred choice when it comes to reading up on the latest trends. I find the magazine backs up Vogue's stereotypical image as being pretentious and out of touch, because who really wants to read about Andre Leon Talley's dalliances with Manhattan's upper elite over cocktails at Butter, when there are a lot more important and interesting topics dealt with in other fashion publications. Even when it comes to fashion, its editorials compared with the likes of Vogue Paris aren't on the same par. Uninspiring, monotonous, and lazy are words that come to mind, but the recent July issue surprised me, while almost reluctant to pick it up from the news stand with Sienna Miller leering back at me from the cover, i was shocked to see two high fashion editorials reminiscent from those of an edgy Vogue Italia or Paris spread. The genius behind these fashion stories, Mario Testino and Terry Richardson
Testino's editorial, named 'City of Dreams, featured Daria Werbowy and Caroline Trentini posing as two young girls heading to Manhattan looking for fame and fortune. This spread featured multiple different looks conveying moments in the girl's new york lives, from an opulent red gown while on stage to a pair of sweats, a leather jacket and a pink wig while eating Chinese on a bed
Richardson's spread was entitled "Visionary" with model lily Donaldson featured in an optometrist's office. The focus of the editorial was jewelery, with a lot of chains, studs, metal and gems adding a mix of texture to the spread. For once the pages of US vogue seeked to inspire their readers..a possible first. So enjoy this rare moment!!

'City Of Dreams' - Mario Testino - American Vogue









'Visionary' - Terry Richardson - American Vogue





all photos from www.fashiongonerogue.com

Muse of the Month: Julia Restoin-Roitfeld

As far as fashion offspring go, Julia Roitfeld (29) is one lucky girl. As only daughter of famed Vogue Paris editor-in-Chief and style icon Carine Roitfeld, Julia seems to be following in her mother's Alaia clad footsteps into the world of fashion. Roitfeld has only come to the attention of the fashion press in the past few years, most notably after her graduation from Parsons School of Design in New York back in 2006. Since then she has been a front Row fixture on the fashion scene, attending countless catewalk shows as well as having her face embellish multiple campaigns, most notably Tom Ford's first fragrance 'Black Orchid' and Jil Sander's debut fragarance, 'Jil'.

In recent years Roitfeld has wowed us with her unique and edgy style which is distinctly similar to her mother's daring taste. Her style has a slightly more feminine edge, all the while still retaining the sophisticated sexiness, her mother is known for. Recently short, sequined and Balmain are thes words of choice, with Roitfeld turning up to numerous events tightly wound in a Balmain bandage dress. But sexy is only one of the many personalities of Roitfeld's style. It's hard to pinpoint an exact look with this girl, with her turning up at Donna Karen all casual in a pair of jeans and a coat, at Calvin Klein in denim cut-offs and a leather jacket and then at DVF in a flirty white eyelet dress with a pin stripe waistcoat. She is a fashion chameleon, never one to stick with one look for too long, always keeping us on our toes, and never a slave to trends.

But while fashion is key to her social existance she also understands that clothes are more then just something you wear. Speaking to to the UK Times she said "some people think that clothes are just things that you wear to cover yourself but i'm blown away because clothes to me are a sort of new pop art. Clothes can be either art or design but need a real purpose". This is a girl who not only exudes style but understands it as a form of art and self expression....a true style maven.

Model of the Month: Lily Donaldson

Flick through any fashion magazine with their sumptuous and extravagent advertisements and editorials and there will remain one consistent face in the overcrowded world of modelling, that of Lily Donaldson. The 22 year old model has graced the covers of countless magazines, the catwalks of numerous designers and is the face of limitless fashion houses. Last thursday night at the unveiling of the new Burberry US headquarters, which is now the newest member to illuminate the New York sky line, Donaldson reined supreme, nearly overshadowing the man of the hour, Christopher Bailey (Burberry’s head designer). The self declared Burberry girl and face of the brand for over 2 years hung onto Bailey's arm for the night, draped (of course) in head to toe Burberry.


But while being a self described member of the Burberry family, the model has graced the campaigns of many competing fashion houses. As well as being the main face of the British luxury goods label, last year Donaldson scored the highly coveted position as the face of iconic label Gucci. Since, Donaldson has earned her supermodel status with the past 5 years being a whirlwind of prestigious international cover shoots and gracing the catwalk for many esteemed designers.

Donaldson started her career in a typical fashion, after being scouted in Camden market while
shopping with friends at the young age of 16. Only 2 years later she was catapulted into the spotlight as she scored her first Vogue cover (UK), which was shot by iconic photographer Mario Testino. Since she has since been featured on covers and in editorials for the leading international fashion publications including Vogue (UK, US, Chinese, French, Australian, Italian and Nippon), W, Harper's bazaar, I-D, V magazine, and Numero. Her presence has also graced the catwalks for a diverse range of designers including Alexander McQueen, Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Chanel, Chloé, Dior, Diane von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karan, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hermès, Jil Sander, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Missoni, Prada, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Rochas, Stella McCartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino, Vera Wang, Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent and Zac Posen.


But what makes Donaldson stand out in the modelling world is her vast portfolio of advertisements for renowned high fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, MaxMara, Jill Sander, Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Roberto Cavalli and Valentino which embellish the pages of international fashion bibles.

With the re-emergence of the model as key, it is Donaldson's time to shine.

Met Gala

The Fahion event of the year, The Metropolitina Museum Costume Institute Gala took place monday the 5th of may. The theme this year was "models as muse" and was attended by some of the most celebrated faces of fashion, music and movies. However controversy sparked over the absence of designer azzedine alia, whose work was ommitted from the event. He along with some of the worlds most recognized supermodels (Naoimi, Linda and Stephane Seymour) who he designed gowns for failed to make an appearance in a protest against the ommission and described "dictator" Anna Wintour. He told womens wear daily how she has ignored his work for 15 years and how "“She behaves like a dictator and everyone is terrified of her . . . but I’m not scared of her or anyone.” While his absence didnt go unnotived there was plenty of fashion to make up for his lack of attendance.

Barbara Hulanicki for Topshop

Topshop does it again as today marked a new addition to it's spring/summer collaboration collections. Barbara Hulanicki the legendary designer of the seventies cult label, Biba, debuts her capsule collection for Topshop, which hits stores today. Following her illustration exhibition The Art of Barbara Hulanicki last march, Topshop approached her to "to do a collection that didn't look like Biba" says Hulanicki (Vogue.co.uk).
(Biba Clothing)

Biba encapsulated the look of the youth generation of the 60's and 70's. Based in London, it's signature stylings consisted of mod-con dresses, mini skirts and uni-sex t-shirts. It was a cult among teens and young adults, and allowed them to wear the latest trends from the Paris runways at affordable prices. Musicians, models and Hollywood stars alike such as Mick Jagger, Twiggy and Bridgette Bardot etc, found solace in the store's art deco, Hollywood golden age and nouveua mix of decor."Freddy Mercury lounged on it's leopard print chairs, Lou Reed wore it's black nail polish , The New York dolls played a legendary 2 night-stint in the upstairs rainbow room and David Bowie regularly took tea in its roof garden" (thebibaecxperience.com). By the Early 70's, the store had completely altered the London look, transforming the city into a fashion capital of the world. The 7-story shop sold everything from feather boas to children's clothing to pet food. But the dream was shattered when the shop closed it's doors in 1975. The label has since been relaunched by designer Bella Freud in May 2006.

While Barbara's Topshop collection differs from the designs of Biba's heyday it still manages to incorporate the boutique's quirky stylings with the use eccentric prints varying from bees, a girls face, animal spots and stars which are emblazoned on everything from shoulder padded dresses to trousers and bikinis. The line manages to maintain the Biba tradition of producing cool clothing with affordable prices, and has already been seen on the likes of Mary Kate Olsen, who was spotted in a blue star and bee spotted blouse. While the Biba of the 70's may be gone it manages to live on its modern day reincarnation, Topshop.